Highlights of this chapter include the following: an unofficial currency exchange, time in a filthy Tehran hotel, an Iranian family's dinner political discussion, memories of a difficult night in Marseille, generalized social tension in Tehran, a run-in with security at Shariati Hospital, Dr. Bastani's intriguing backstory, generalized social fear of American attack in Tehran, the stories of unhappy compensated kidney "donors" in Tehran, the social stigma of selling a kidney in Iran, the stories of happy compensated kidney "donors", the complexity of Iranian kidney sales to foreigners, Sharia law support for compensated kidney "donation", and the decadence of the Grand Ayatollah's granddaughter. Lowlights of this chapter include the author apparently without irony musing about American "due process" and "checks and balances that control power in the West" and the author's American-centric judgment of "Iran's not-so-secret support of Hezbollah and Hamas and its pursuit of nuclear power in violation of repeated United Nations Security Council admonitions" as a "provocation".
The travelogue style of this work continues to impress.